The Covid-19 pandemic changed consumers’ concepts of cleanliness. It also gave them a new perspective on the upkeep of what many consider their most treasured asset: their hair.

When 2020’s lockdown shuttered nonessential businesses like hair salons for three months, it forced hair-coloring consumers to hone their DIY skills to touch up their roots. Others ditched the box and let it grow out au naturel. Two years later, consumers continue moving in both directions. Hair care brands are rolling out new products catering to the beauty enthusiast eager to sport spring and summer’s hottest hair color trends or embrace their natural shade.

According to The NPD Group, Port Washington, NY, sales in the US in the prestige beauty market inclusive of products sold in beauty specialty and department stores and online were $48.8 million in the 12 months ending February 2022. That’s an increase of 67% compared to pre-pandemic and 14% versus the year prior.

According to IRI data for the total US multi-outlet—which includes grocery, drug, mass market, military and select club and dollar retailers for 52 weeks ending Jan. 23, 2022–sales in the hair coloring market were $1.6 billion, with women’s hair coloring topping $1.3 billion, a decrease of 7.8% from last year. Meanwhile, men’s hair color sales rose 4.5% to more than $194 million, representing a 4.5% increase.

L’Oréal topped the list of highest-selling hair coloring brands followed by Garnier and Clairol (see chart). Just For Men leads the men’s hair coloring category.

At The Salon Again

“Once the salons opened, our clients were really happy to get back to see their stylists, but that time at home also empowered people to explore DIY, especially the semi-permanent styles,” said Alex Brownsell, co-founder and creative director of Bleach London, based in the UK.

Brownsell opened Bleach London, one of the world’s first color-focused salons, 12 years ago in London. She created a range of DIY products shortly thereafter to provide consumers with an affordable option to achieve and maintain their hair-coloring routines in the comfort of their own home. Nowadays, the brand has garnered attention from Gen-Z in particular, fast becoming a popular hair color brand on TikTok with famous fans such as Rihanna, model Cara Delevingne and “Game of Thrones” star Maisie Williams. In March, the salon launched its DIY hair color kits and hair care collection in the US, selling 16 of its 44 products at Walmart stores. In a partnership with the retail giant, Bleach London is available in 3,500 store locations nationwide. The partnership comes on the heels of Bleach London’s opening of its first US salon in Los Angeles, CA in June 2021.

Among Bleach London’s shelf-favorites and in-line with this summer’s hair color trends, which include dimensional blondes and pretty penny coppers, is its Copper and Lavender-Grey toner kits, and White Toner, which the brand claims to sell one every 90 seconds. Bleach London’s semi-permanent hair colors span from pastel pinks to fiery reds to honey golds.

“I think we’ll see lots of warmer colors as we get closer to summer, with people moving away from the cooler, ashier tones that have dominated until recently,” said Brownsell. “Copper is especially popular right now. That ginger trend has been growing since the beginning of last year. We started off mixing lots of custom coppers in the salons before releasing our own Copper Toner and Proper Copper Super Cool Color, and I think copper and its variations are here to stay.”

Copper Is Gold

According to Pinterest, bright copper hair tops its shortlist of the seven trendiest hair colors for spring 2022, with an increase of 608.3% in search volume. Following is expensive brunette at a 225% increase, ginger hair with blonde (211.5%), platinum blonde hair (177.7%), dark brunette with blonde highlights (106.3%), blonde hair with root smudge (100%) and honey strawberry blonde hair at 75.4%.

Spate, a New York City-based beauty trend tracker, found that there were 132,400 monthly average searches for ginger hair in the US, reflecting a 30% growth in searches from last year. The top color in the ginger family was paprika hair color, which represented year-over-year growth of 36.2% followed by red and blonde hair at an increase of 21% year-over-year.

Hairstyles reminiscent of the Y2K era are also making a comeback in popular culture. According to Spate, searches for hair tinsel, shimmering strands of “fairy hair” extensions in copper, rose gold, champagne and silver signify consumer interest in incorporating Y2K aesthetic in their beauty routines. Spate says there are an average of 65,000 searches every month in the US for hair tinsel, up 133.7% compared to last year.

The current term for chunky color highlights most commonly seen in the Y2K era is a new trend that colorists refer to as “poptarting.” The trend is an ode to the hairstyles of Kelly Clarkson when she first appeared on “American Idol” two decades ago and actress Lindsay Lohan circa 2005’s cult favorite “Mean Girls.” The look is apropos for women seeking bright pops of color without committing to a half- or full-head of highlights.

“Poptarting is adding a pop of color or panel of any contrasting color to the rest of your hair,” said Shelley Gregory, L’Oréal Professionnel Paris Ambassador and Colorist. According to Gregory, there should be a stark contrast—for example, medium brown hair, a bright pastel or neon pink “pop.”

To best maintain color, Gregory recommends clients take home L’Oréal Professionnel’s Metal Detox. The shampoo and mask contain Glicoamine, which neutralizes metal particles from within the hair fibers to prevent oxidizing. The result is 87% less breakage.

“I’m also really into the chunky blonde highlights look which is getting more popular, with the Y2K hair and fashion moment sticking around,” added Brownsell. “You can use Total Bleach to lighten the sections of hair you want to highlight, then tone with Champagne Super Toner to balance out the blonde and get rid of yellows for a nice golden blonde. Add Just Like Honey Super Cool Color for a softer, sandier blonde finish.”

A famous proponent of Just Like Honey is Bleach London co-founder Georgia May Jagger. Jagger has been a brand advocate since Brownsell started the business in her kitchen circa 2010 mixing colors and pouring them into empty glass bottles for DIY-dyers to try at home.

“There’s not many shades she hasn’t tried, often a few at once,” said Brownsell. “But she really loves our pinks, especially The Big Pink, which is a hot Barbie shade. Georgia has hair that’s naturally a dark blonde, so whether she’s got a full head of bleach, highlights or a dip dye, she keeps a bottle of Just Like Honey on hand to easily keep those golden tones fresh. She’s also Hair Elixir’s biggest fan! I know she keeps a bottle of our pocket-sized, super silky serum on her whenever she goes to help her hair stay smooth and free of frizz.”


Bold Hues

Other hair color brands offering a slate of bold, standout shades include Good Dye Young. The vegan hair color company was created by Hayley Williams, lead singer of Grammy-winning pop-rock band Paramore and her longtime hairstylist, Brian O’Connor. Next month, Good Dye Young expands its edgy, electrifying offerings in 3,500 Walmart stores. The brand—founded on the pillars of self-expression, a flair for bold color and limitless inspiration—includes a range of four products that speak to the whimsical and untamed, at any age. The “I’m Bored” Collection (Williams’ favorite) contains five, semi-temporary color serums that add a pop of color minus the commitment. Colors range from Text UR Ex for Blondes in rose gold to Binge Watch and Thirst Trap for brunettes in cherry cola and eggplant, respectively. They last two to six washes.

“We created this for people who might be afraid to commit to color,” said O’Connor. “We have certain colors for blondes and certain colors for brunettes due to the pigment load of the colors. For blondes, you need a much lighter pigment load to ensure the product washes out in six washes. Brunette hair is darker. (It) needs a heavier pigment load to add a tint of color to the hair. [Hayley and I] came up with the names during quarantine, and we wanted to name things that you would do when you are bored!”

As if people are still quarantining, brands like Good Dye Young and Bleach London provide tutorials on its social channels to guide first-time colorists through the process. Consumers can find a QR code on the Good Dye Young product boxes that takes them to the how-to page.

“We know dyeing your hair can be intimidating, so we make sure to walk our community through the entire process,” said O’Connor. “A first-time buyer would need to use the Lightening Kit to pre-lighten their hair to a light blonde color. They can then go in with the vibrant semi-permanent shade of their choice.”

Good Dye Young’s semi-permanent hair color collection’s key active ingredient, sunflower extract, contains UV-blocking agents that prevent color from fading. The formula contains essential oil and mood-boosting bergamot. Coconut oil in the lightening kit contains hydrating properties to restore moisture that would be stripped during the lightening process. Soy protein adds integrity to the hair in place of keratin, according to the company.

The brand also offers its Lighter Daze collection for lovers of pastel colors without the strong neon shade, and the Metal Head collection spans shimmery metallic shades for consumers seeking a head-turning look. While Good Dye Young may give off the impression that it appeals strictly to the Gen Z trendy, don’t be fooled by the name.

“It’s for anyone and everyone,” said O’Connor. “There is always a seat at the table in this community no matter your age.

Another seemingly Gen Z-geared brand that welcomes users of all ages is Australia-based Brite. Its semi-permanent colors, bleach and toner kits and shampoo color appeals just as much to younger audiences as well as the young at heart. CEO Bex Gold describes consumers in their 60s and 70s who enjoy hair color experimentation, “cockatoos.” They will typically dye a front segment of their hair a bold piece of color like white and black á la Cruella de Vil.

Sales for Brite in the US were $4.7 million, a 407.1% increase from last year, according to IRI data. Gold attributes the uptick in sales to the consumers who had been coloring their own hair since the lockdown days and have since continued given the work-from-home schedules consumers have been accustomed to.

Apart from hair-coloring products that serve to touch up roots, consumers are keen on the “money piece” highlighting technique. According to Gold, this technique involves applying bleach only to the pieces of hair that frame the face. Recommended for first-time hair bleaching consumers, the hair-coloring technique eases their way into changing their hair color rather than taking the plunge into an overprocessed look or a half-head of permanent highlights they may not be particularly fond of.

Another hair care brand offering vivid hues is Developlus, Inc. In April, the family-owned, California-based hair care company announced the extension of its best-selling Splat lines with six new affordable products. Its Splat Original Complete Kits come in two long-lasting and semi-permanent shades—Whipped Cherry and Winter Gray join the brand’s 25 existing hues.

For brunettes, Splat Midnight Pink Sapphire is formulated with micro-pigments to achieve bold color sans bleach using baobab seed oil to condition while quinoa extracts strengthen and protect. For a summer blonde look, Splat’s Brilliant Bleach lifts up to eight levels, while its plant-based protein complex strengthens and protects bleached hair from damage.

Gray’s the Way

For some consumers, color is king. For others, gray’s the way. Another bold hair trend that has emerged from the pandemic is going natural; for some, that means embracing their silver locks.

Go Gray’s Go Gray System includes a revitalizing treatment and a clarifying charcoal shampoo and conditioner. These professional grade formulas promise to gradually fade and remove hair dye used to previously cover graying hair. The non-bleach revitalizing treatment lightens hair to create a color transition from the gray roots coming in. The charcoal-activated shampoo and conditioner duo help fade hair color without stripping moisture from hair or scalp.

According to NPD Group’s research, nearly half of consumers are willing to spend more on hair products that work for them. NPD predicts the hair product category will continue its sales trajectory through the next two years, averaging 15% growth in the US. Hair-related products include hair and scalp treatments, relaxers, chemical straighteners, hair gummies and vitamins, according to a report entitled “Future of Hair” by the group.

“Both functional and fun, the hair category is winning with consumers in more ways than one,” said Larissa Jensen, beauty industry advisor at The NPD Group. “Since the onset of the pandemic, consumers have taken more of their hair routines in-house, sought ways to treat themselves outside of the salon, and have grown more educated on hair conditions and product ingredients. We can expect the category to continue to show strength, as consumers strive to look more polished re-entering society, and product innovations continue to capture their interest.”

Root Systems

Clairol’s new Root Touch-Up by Natural Instincts is purportedly the first-ever such product without ammonia. It provides 100% gray coverage while naturally blending roots with the color in just 20 minutes. Clairol’s new Blonde It Up is billed as the brand’s most advanced blonding system without bleach. Its patented AminoLift Technology lightens hair up to five levels while the AminoGlycen complex helps safeguard hair’s natural keratin yielding a desired lighter color with less damage.

To enhance existing color, Clairol’s Color Gloss Up contains rich conditioning agents like shea butter and argan oil to provide a color boost to natural color or add vibrant tones in as little as 15 minutes. The product is available in two collections—natural and bold—with six shades each. Natural includes Toasted Almond Blonde and Terra Copper while the vibrant expressive color shades include Blazin’ Red, Pretty in Hot Pink and Teal Time.

Another brand offering expansive hair-coloring product ranges free from ammonia is Madison Reed. This is part of the brand’s “Smart-8 ingredient philosophy.” Madison Reed formulates products without PPD, parabens, resorcinol, phthalates, gluten, SLS or titanium dioxide. The result? A consistent and uniform color that produces the desired, natural results the consumer seeks, according to the company.

Shvonne Perkins, lead educator at Madison Reed, which is headquartered in San Francisco, said the brand’s top selling product is its Radiant Color Kit. She likens it to a “salon in a box.” Its Color Reviving Gloss and Color Therapy Masks are an “easy fix” to add tone back to hair when the color and shine begins to fade and protect the color after initial application. The Madison Reed Prosecco Gloss is ideal for blondes seeking to tone their hair at home.

“It gives a perfect mid-beige tone and balances gold and cool tones together,” said Perkins. “For brunettes, to keep orange tones at bay, use a cool toned color deposit conditioner like Color Therapy Mask in Caffe. For the copper/strawberry blonde trend, the Zucca Color Therapy Mask has buildable results and the more often you use it, the more copper pigment you’ll see.”

Earlier this year, Madison Reed also expanded its hair color bar offerings nationwide to include ammonia-free highlight and balayage services from its highly-trained colorists—back by popular demand.

“When our clients ask, we deliver—and that’s most certainly the case with highlights,” said Amy Errett, CEO and founder of Madison Reed. “We had hundreds of clients asking for foil highlights every week in our Hair Color Bar locations nationwide. Our clients know and love Madison Reed Hair Color Bars for our convenient, affordable and consistently gorgeous results with ingredients you can feel good about.”

Summer’s Hottest Trends

To achieve 2022’s spring and summer hair color trends, such as pretty penny coppers and dimensional blondes, Matt Swinney, global creative director at Rusk, Stamford, CT, suggests the brand’s Deepshine Hair Colors and Glosses and the RUSKin10 Express Colors.

Another one of spring’s trendy shades is expensive brunette—a shiny, defined, and upgraded version of the brunette shade infused with touches of golden blonde. To get it, Redken offers its Shades EQ Level 10 series in a range of level 10s spanning cool to warm. The formula enables colorists to create virtually every shade of blonde, according to Philip Foresto, Redken brand ambassador, New York. In March, celebrity hairstylist and Redken Brand Ambassador Matt Rez gave actress Maddie Ziegler (known for “Dance Moms”) the new hair color she debuted on the red carpet at the Oscars.

“For her color change, Maddie was wanting to go more brunette with a rich, dimensional and reflective vibe to it. I was really excited to use Redken Shades EQ Gloss to bring her dream color to life and help create her Oscars look,” Rez recalled.

Redken Ambassador and celebrity colorist Tracey Cunningham also used Redken’s Shades EQ on Sydney Sweeney, Lily James and Dakota Johnson for their Oscar looks.

“On Oscar eve, Sydney and I spoke and she just wanted a little pick-me-up of blonde for the big day, which is why Redken Shades EQ is perfect for a simple touch up,” said Cunningham. “The pop of extra blonde completed her gorgeous look reminiscent of past movie starlets—she was giving me Marilyn Monroe vibes.”

Foresto offered tips to keep a new hue looking its best long after a runway debut.

“Redken offers premium home care and styling products that allow my guests to maintain and protect their hair color at home,” he said. The line’s active ingredients include built-in bonders that protect the hair throughout the lightening and toning process. For optimal health, Foresto recommends consumers get a trim every two months to obtain a “stronger canvas” for coloring.

Made-to-order, direct-to-consumer hair color company eSalon launched in Amazon’s US store in March. eSalon has a Light Set that consumers can use to achieve the dimensional blonde look at home. The kit includes pro tools and easy-to-execute instructions that can be used to apply a “sunkissed glow” to monotone hair with the usage of a modern balayage technique.

For a healthier hair color experience, One ‘n Only launched One Shot Bond Repair as a bond additive in March. It works by enabling penetration through the hair cuticle to repair damage to the cortex, repairing the bond by flattening the cuticle to protect the hair fiber. It repairs broken bonds and reinforces the internal protein keratin bonds to preserve hair’s integrity and prevent color fading despite multiple shampoos.

Good Dye Young’s newest addition to its product line, Dyeposit, works similarly; its bond-building color depositing conditioner maintain color integrity.

“I like what it represents for me as a professional hairstylist,” said O’Connor. “Not only does it have a bond builder in it, but it’s a great take-home product to refresh your hair color at home in between.”

New Players in Professional Color

In April, Oway—an Italian brand of organic and biodynamic “agricosmetics” for hair, skin and body—launched in the US. Founded more than 70 years ago, the company works with a network of certified Italian partners and organic farmers who adhere to stringent agricultural and eco-friendly standards. It is committed to growing zero-mile plants, flowers and medicinal and aromatic shrubs on its estate in Bologna. Established in 2010, the commercial farm grows herbs and plants and distills them on site for use in its products.

Oway claims to carry the first permanent agricosmetic  hair-coloring treatment with more than 35% biodynamic and organic sage macerate. The firm is seeking partners to adopt its sustainable values and provide its exclusive treatments and multisensory experiences as an official Oway salon.

Moroccanoil has also entered the category, launching its Professional Haircolor Collection in February. The portfolio includes permanent, demi-permanent hair color and lighteners. All feature the brand’s proprietary ProArginine + ArganID System. The breakthrough technology purportedly delivers “exceptional protection” throughout the color process, all while providing nine weeks of salon-vibrant color and a 64% increase in shine. ProArginine works as an alkalizing agent that supports the color process while ArganID repairs the cuticle. According to the company, 96% of clients said they experienced overall scalp comfort.

The Moroccanoil Professional Hair color Collection is available during color services at select salons nationwide, according to the brand, which is bullish about its prospects in this new area.

“The same spirit of innovation that the brand was built upon is at the heart of the new Moroccanoil Professional Hair Color Collection,” said vice president of global education, Robert Ham. “It’s an exciting time for us to enter the professional hair color category, especially with color being one of the most requested services and needs in the industry.” 

Silver Sisters Inspired by women’s bold decisions to forgo hair dye during the pandemic, Luxy Hair launched the Silver Sister Movement. Coinciding with International Women’s Day, March 8, to celebrate the beauty of aging and to show the gorgeousness of gray hair, the brand, which makes hair extensions made of 100% human hair, launched its first-ever collection of gray shades. “Throughout our research, there have been people that have decided to go gray at different stages of their lives for different reasons,” said Luxy Hair President Amy Sveda. According to Sveda, the company had been getting an influx of requests for gray extensions. To get an accurate representation of what customers wanted, Luxy Hair collected data from photos. Through this research, Luxy Hair landed on a salt and pepper tonality. Each product, Sveda explained, is a combination of different tones used to replicate a realistic color pattern that its customers are facing. The target audience for the products are consumers ages 45 and up. What’s more, Luxy Hair donated 10% of all site-wide sales to Catalyst, a 60-year-old global nonprofit that works with over 800 companies worldwide to accelerate women in leadership and supports gender equality and marginalized populations as it relates to the workforce. “There is bias around aging in the workforce,” said Sveda. “One of the reasons why we wanted to support Catalyst in tandem with National Women’s Day and our gray launch was to enforce that as you age, it does not mean you are less valuable or out of touch. I think people fear they’re going to look older if they have their hair grown out. It’s not the way it used to be when our parents were younger. I think it’s super liberating. I feel it’s less of a trend and more of a movement. Once people have embraced it, it’s not something they want to go back to. It’s part of their lifestyle and a liberation from feeling chained to your expenditure. It’s not just something people are going to pivot away from.”